Choosing a mechanical keyboard switch is the single highest-impact decision in a keyboard build. The case, the plate, and the keycaps all matter — but the switch is what your fingers touch several thousand times a day.

This guide is a decision tool. Rather than explaining the basics again, it walks you straight through the choice: which switch type, which weight, which sound, and which brand — with a recommendation at the end of each step.

If you are completely new to this, read what are keyboard switches first, then come back here to actually decide. For a side-by-side breakdown of every family, see our keyboard switches comparison.

Step 1: Choose Your Mechanical Keyboard Switch Type

Every mechanical keyboard switch belongs to one of five families. Get this right and the rest is refinement.

Type	Feel	Noise	Choose it if…
Linear	Smooth, no bump	Moderate	You game competitively, or want an uninterrupted typing rhythm
Tactile	A felt bump	Moderate	You type a lot and want confirmation for each keystroke
Clicky	Bump plus click	Loud	You type alone and love the sound
Silent	Linear or tactile, dampened	Quietest	You share an office, a room, or a household
Magnetic (Hall effect)	Smooth, adjustable actuation	Moderate	You want to tune the actuation point per key

Not sure? Linear is the safest default — it is the most popular type by a wide margin, and it suits both gaming and typing. Full detail in our linear switches guide and tactile switches guide. Torn between the two? Read linear vs tactile — or, if noise is the deciding factor, are linear or tactile switches quieter.

Step 2: Choose Your Weight

Spring weight decides how hard you have to press. It is quoted in grams-force, and it is the spec most likely to make you love or hate a switch.

Weight	Range	Suits
Light	~35–45 g	Gaming, fast typing, sensitive hands
Medium	~45–55 g	Almost everyone. The safe default.
Heavy	55 g+	Heavy-handed typists who hate accidental presses

Recommendation: start medium. And note that a tactile switch feels heavier than a linear one at the same rating, because you are pushing through the bump as well as the spring.

Step 3: Choose Your Sound

Two switches with identical weight and type can sound nothing alike, and the reason is materials. The plastics used in the stem and housing shape the acoustic signature:

• Brighter and higher-pitched — strengthened POM and LY stems with fiberglass-reinforced PA66 or nylon housings.
• Deeper and more muted — softer UPE and T-series stems with housings low in fiberglass content.

Rather than decode datasheets, shop the sound directly:

• Clacky switches — sharp, bright, higher-pitched.
• Thocky and creamy switches — deeper, fuller, softer.
• Deep sounding switches — the lowest-pitched end.

Want maximum volume rather than minimum? See the loudest keyboard switches. Going the other way, our guides to making keyboard switches quieter and making a mechanical keyboard quieter cover the rest of the build.

Step 4: Choose a Brand

Brand reputation is a genuine shortcut to quality and consistency.

• HMX — the dominant enthusiast name in recent years, and our deepest range. See the HMX ultimate guide.
• Keygeek — excellent value and smoothness. See the Keygeek guide.
• BSUN — distinctive, characterful releases.
• WingTree — strong recent tactile and linear lineups.
• Gateron — one of the most widely used manufacturers in the hobby.
• Cherry MX — the original MX design and the industry reference point. See the complete Cherry MX guide.
• Akko, KTT, Kailh, Outemu — dependable across a range of budgets.

Wondering how the two biggest legacy names compare? See is Gateron better than Cherry.

Step 5: Lubed or Unlubed?

Lubricant cuts friction between stem and housing, making a switch smoother and usually cleaner-sounding.

• Factory pre-lubed switches — ready to use out of the bag. Right for most people.
• Hand-lubed switches — individually applied, for a more thorough job.
• Do it yourself — see our complete guide to lubing keyboard switches.

Step 6: Work Out How Many You Need

Layout	Switches needed
60%	~61–64
65%	~67–70
75%	~81–84
TKL (80%)	~87
Full size (100%)	~104

Always buy a few spares. Switches are sold in packs, and coming up two short is a genuinely annoying way to end a build. Full detail: how many switches do I need for a 60% keyboard.

Putting It Together: Three Common Profiles

You are…	Recommended setup
A competitive gamer	Light linear (~40 g), or a magnetic switch for adjustable actuation
A writer or programmer	Medium tactile (~50 g), thocky sound profile
In a shared office	Medium silent linear or silent tactile

Three solid starting points from our range: the KEYGEEK Keylin V2 (linear), the HMX Firecracker (tactile), and the LICHICX Silent Yogurt (silent linear). Ranked picks by use case: best switches for typing and office use and best switches for gaming.

Can I Change Switches Later?

If your keyboard is hot-swappable, yes — pull the old switch out, push the new one in, no soldering. This is the single best reason to buy a hot-swap board: you are not locked into your first guess. Our guide on how to change keyboard switches covers both hot-swap and soldered boards.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a mechanical keyboard switch?

It is the individual spring-loaded mechanism under each key that registers the keypress and determines how the key feels and sounds. Mechanical keyboards use one per key, unlike membrane keyboards which share a rubber dome sheet.

Which mechanical keyboard switch type is best?

There is no universal best. Linear for gaming and smoothness, tactile for typing feedback, silent for quiet environments, clicky for sound, magnetic for adjustable actuation. Linear is the most popular default.

What switch weight should a beginner choose?

Medium, roughly 45–55 g. It is balanced enough for both gaming and typing and is the least likely to be a mistake.

Are more expensive switches better?

Not reliably. Price often reflects scarcity, group-buy exclusivity, and branding as much as feel. Plenty of mid-priced switches outperform expensive ones.

Do I have to lube my switches?

No. Most modern switches ship factory pre-lubed and feel good immediately. Hand-lubing is a refinement, not a requirement.

Keep Reading

• What are keyboard switches? A complete beginner's guide
• Keyboard switches comparison: feel, sound and performance
• Linear keyboard switches: the complete guide
• Tactile keyboard switches explained
• Quiet keyboard switches: the ultimate guide
• Red switch keyboards explained
• Cherry MX switches: a complete guide
• Keyboard switch stems explained
• Shop all mechanical keyboard switches