Keyboard Switches

These are the three core switch types and your starting point for any switch decision. Linear switches (like HMX Macchiato or Cherry MX Black) travel smoothly from top to bottom with no bump or click — preferred by gamers for fast, consistent keypresses. Tactile switches give you a physical bump at the actuation point so you know the key registered without bottoming out — great for typing. Clicky switches add an audible click on top of that bump — satisfying to type on but noticeably loud. If you work in a shared space or office, linear or tactile silent switches are usually the considerate choice.

It depends on your keyboard layout. As a general guide: a 60% keyboard needs around 61 switches, a 65% needs ~68, a 75% needs ~82–84, a TKL (80%) needs ~87, and a full-size (100%) needs 104–110. We recommend buying 10–15 extra switches to account for testing, duds, and future replacements. Most switches on UniKeys are sold in packs of 10, 35, 45, or 70 — check the product page to plan your quantity before ordering.

Many switches in our collection come factory pre-lubed, meaning they're ready to install immediately with a smooth, refined feel right out of the box — ideal for beginners or anyone who doesn't want to spend hours hand-lubing. Factory lube has improved significantly; brands like HMX, Keygeek, and Gateron now ship with quality lube applied at the factory. If you want to take it further, hand-lubing unlubed switches with something like Krytox 205G0 remains the enthusiast gold standard for linear switches — but it's optional, not required.

"Thocky" describes a deep, muted, low-pitched sound when typing — the opposite of a high-pitched "clacky" sound. It's one of the most searched-for characteristics in the hobby. Achieving it comes down to a combination of factors: switch material (POM stems tend to sound deeper), spring weight, keyboard case material, and foam dampening. Switches like the HMX series and Leobog variants are frequently praised in the community for their thocky profiles. If you're chasing this sound, look for switches with POM stems and pair them with a gasket-mounted keyboard and case foam for best results.

The pins refer to how the switch mounts to your PCB. 3-pin (plate-mount) switches have two metal legs and one plastic center pin. 5-pin (PCB-mount) switches add two extra plastic pins for a more stable, precise fit. Most hot-swap keyboards accept both, but if your keyboard's PCB only supports 3-pin, you can clip the two extra plastic legs off a 5-pin switch with flush cutters — it takes about 10 seconds per switch and doesn't affect performance. Check your keyboard's product page to confirm compatibility before ordering, or reach out to us if you're unsure.

Almost all switches in our collection use the Cherry MX footprint, which is the industry standard. This means they're compatible with the vast majority of hot-swap mechanical keyboards on the market — including popular boards like the Keychron Q/V series, QwertyKeys, Ticktype, and most custom keyboard kits. As long as your keyboard is hot-swap and MX-compatible, you can simply pull the old switches out and press the new ones in — no soldering needed. If your board requires soldering, these switches will still work; it just requires more effort.

The budget switch market has improved dramatically — you no longer have to spend a lot to get an excellent switch. In our collection, the HMX and Keygeek lineups consistently get recommended on r/mechanicalkeyboards for their smooth factory lube, solid build quality, and low price per switch. Akko switches are another strong community favourite for value. For beginners, we suggest starting with a 35–45 pack of a well-reviewed linear or tactile switch to test how it feels in your board before committing to a full set. You can always try multiple types without breaking the bank.